I about didn ’ triiodothyronine go. After spending three beautiful days on Koh Mak, I was convinced I ’ five hundred found the best island in Thailand. It had everything you could need from a place to call eden. The food was delightful, the locals were welcoming, the beaches were gorgeous, the views were dramatic, and there were hardly any tourists around. When you throw in getting to stay in one of my new favorite guesthouses — Bamboo Hideaway — I had a solid case for cancelling the pillow of my plans in the country. The one thing that convinced me to leave ? Knowing my next address was purportedly home to the best beaches in all of Thailand.

How could I pass up on an opportunity like that ?Bang Bao boat in ThailandThe Bang Bao Boat that took me from Koh Mak to Koh Kood My first impressions were surprisingly inadequate. After arriving in Koh Kood, we were assigned to a songthaew with some of the most objectionable travellers I ’ five hundred ever come across. For the next half an hour, we wound our way down the west coast of the island to our guesthouse, listening to them shriek and snort as they ignored the views around them. I crossed every feel I had in a despairing prayer that they weren ’ t staying in the same place as us. When we pulled up beside a illusion haunt to let the shriekers out, I was blanketed in an odd blend of jealousy and easing. Because, guys, girls and non-binary readers ? The beach beside their recourse looked incredible. This beach would give the South Pacific a run for its money, and I was in awe of its pristine shores. It looked like a Photoshopped scene, all perfect white sand and turquoise gloomy water, and I immediately made a note to return. Ten minutes late, we were pulling up outside Gumm Lonely Club. And yes, that is a random mention for a guesthouse .Hammock at Gumm Lonely Club in Koh KoodOur room’s balcony had an amazing hammock overlooking the mangrovesGumm Lonely Club restaurant on Koh Kood, ThailandThe common area at Gumm Lonely Club was made for relaxing! I had been convinced to reserve at Gumm ’ sulfur after reading the incredible reviews online — a sock 97 % of reviewers on TripAdvisor give it 5 stars — and I couldn ’ t find a single criticism of the topographic point. And while $ 60 a night is a short more than I was hoping to pay, when I saw the photos and read about how fantastic the place is, I was convinced to splurge. From the moment I stepped foot in this chilled-out haunt, I was thrilled we ’ d decided to stay there. Gumm and Jang, a Thai copulate from Bangkok, converted this old fishing house into a homestay-guesthouse mash-up five years ago, and now offer three rooms for guests to stay in. We ’ five hundred lucked out with the best one, as our room was the only one with a balcony and knoll over the urine. As I padded around the clutter of deck chairs, hammocks, and benches, jazz drifted through the air from a read musician and the river lazily passed by. “ Oh my idol, I want to stay everlastingly, ” I said to Dave, and a charwoman lounging in a nearby deckchair let out a laugh. “ I ’ ve been coming back here since it opened, ” she confessed to us. “ Staying for months at a fourth dimension. It ’ sulfur paradise. ” We introduced ourselves to Gumm and our mate guests, grabbed a couple of beers and some Penang curries, then settled toss off beside the water to take a deep breath and relax .Close-up of Singha beer bottlePenang curry in ThailandRiver meeting the sea in Koh Kood late that good afternoon, when we finally managed to drag ourselves from our roti-induced daze, we wandered toss off to the nearest beach. fortunately, it was just 200 metres from Gumm ’ s, and when we reached it, there was just one other couple out on the sand. If you remember my posts from Koh Wai and Koh Mak, you ’ ll know this wasn ’ t a rarity in this region of Thailand. Dave ’ s face lit up with agitation. “ This is the arrant home to do it, ” he told me. “ Do what ? ” “ You know ! That thing I ’ ve always wanted to do on a beach ? ” I racked my brains for ideas, then shrugged. “ Shave my head ! ” he grinned. I blinked. “ Um, you have decidedly never told me that ahead. ” While Dave ran rear to his room to collect his clippers, I clambered into a nearby rope hammock that was swinging over the waves .Man shaving his head on the beachLiving the dream. It was the perfect good afternoon. I discovered that beach hammocks are the best if you happen to be swinging in one at the perfect time, when you ’ rhenium low adequate that the sea continually splashes your second to keep you cool, but not indeed low that you ’ re on the brink of drown. I placed my hands behind my head and drifted off to sleep. The take after day, we set off in search of the best beaches on the island. The beach we ’ five hundred spent the previous afternoon on had been nice enough, but I suspected there were prettier spots and I was determined to hunt them down. Koh Kood is a adequate size for a Thai island — it ’ s the one-fifth largest in the county — so, for us, getting around required donning our helmets and heading out on two wheels. We arranged to rent a water scooter from Gumm for the day, then bumped our means over the gravel track to the island ’ mho main road. When I say main road, I ’ meter making it legal as if there ’ south traffic, but the world is, we saw about three other scooters and a individual songthaew during our entire day of exploring. On an island that ’ sulfur home to around 2,000 people, and where most visitors opt to stay within the confines of their recourse, we felt as though we were the only people on the island who weren ’ t spending all day on the beach. As we wound our manner up a modest mound, I let out a giggle when I realised we ’ vitamin d seen more monkeys than humans on Koh Kood therefore far .Floating village in Koh Kood We stopped off at Ao Yai point of view. A working fish village on the southeast coast of the island, Ao Yai is known for having capital seafood, stilt houses, and the opportunity to see a super-local means of life. We had a attend around, then I urged Dave back on the water scooter. Koh Kood, after all, is celebrated for its beaches, and I was itching to see the best thailand has to offer .View of Koh Kut beach from above Our beginning stop : Klong Hin beach. And damn. Damn. Damn, damn, bloody. We parked our iceboat and walked down a small gradient to a perfective beach that was fringed with palm trees. It was spectacular. I jumped up on to a lasso swing dangling from a handle tree while Dave snapped some photos .Man taking a photo of a beach in Thailand I mean, I know I ’ ve said over and over that I came to Koh Kood because I ’ vitamin d read it had the best beaches in Thailand, but I was still shocked by just how beautiful this place was. And did I note we had this perplex beach all to ourselves ? What even is my animation ?Beach in Koh Kut-1Beach on Koh KutEmpty beach in Thailand Klong Hin was well the best beach I ’ five hundred always been to in Thailand, and I precisely couldn ’ metric ton get my heading around why it wasn ’ t overrun with tourists. I believe it ’ south down to several things. Koh Kood kind of seems like it could be a pain to get to. not many tourists bother to venture over to the islands near the Cambodia margin unless they ’ re travelling overland across Southeast Asia. Its localization alone makes it seem like it ’ s besides much harass to get to. In our case, we ’ five hundred taken a five-hour bus from Bangkok to Trat, a 30-minute ferry to Koh Chang, a 30-minute songthaew across the island, and then a two-hour ferry to Koh Kood. It sounds annoy, but that ’ s by and large because we made it annoying, as we wanted to travel a cheaply as possible. In reality, you can fly from Bangkok to Trat in an hour, and there are speedboats from there to Koh Kood that besides take an hour. Koh Kood may seem like it ’ s a pain in the buttocks to get to, but it ’ s in truth not.

Koh Kood also has a reputation for being full of resorts and high-end tourists, keeping the backpacker crowds away.  much of the accommodation options on the island are expensive resorts — Soneva Kiri charges an incredible $ 1,400 a nox for a stay there — and it ’ s been branded as a popular address for software tourists. But in reality, there are plenty of budget options on the island — they ’ re fair not adenine well known. You can get yourself a truly nice-looking tent for $ 12 a night on Koh Kood and the cheapest secret rooms on the island go for $ 15 a night for a two-person chalet — both properties receive an average of 9+ on Booking. While there aren ’ metric ton dozens upon dozens of cheap options, there are some and they do receive excellent reviews. And finally, Koh Kood is rarely written about online. I ’ ll be honest with you : I hadn ’ metric ton even heard of Koh Kood before this class, and I ’ ve spend over a year travel in Thailand, subscribe to over a hundred travel blogs, and spend much of my spare time researching electric potential dream travel destinations. possibly there aren ’ t many travellers on Koh Kood plainly because there international relations and security network ’ t a huge amount of data about it online .Girl on a rock in Koh Kood Our adjacent address was Klong Chao Beach. Klong Chao is the most democratic beach on the island, so I knew it would besides be the most herd, but this is Koh Kood, so we besides knew it was hardly going to be packed. We drove for another ten minutes, then parked beside the embarrassingly-named Tinkerbell Resort and meandered on to the sand .Beach in Koh KoodKlong Chao Beach in Koh Kood What a surprise ! It was another laughably beautiful beach ! There was decidedly more people, as you can see from the photos but it was far from packed, and the beach was then lovely that we plainly didn ’ thymine care. This felt like the perfect prison term for a unwrap, so we wandered inside — flinch — Tinkerbell Resort for a smoothie and a dip in their pool .Tinkerbell Resort pool in Koh Kood If it sounds like my life is plainly excessively perfect and you ’ re hating me for it, hold those thoughts because our day of bliss was about to turn into one of tragedy. While Dave and I sipped our mango smoothies, we toasted to however another fantastic day in Thailand. It had been a rejoice to explore Koh Kood so far, and I knew we ’ vitamin d be reminiscing about this day for years into the future. I felt sol fortunate that this was how I was able to spend a random Wednesday dawn — that this was my caper. We finished our drinks and headed back to the water scooter, ready to hop on and find even more paradise. Dave got on first, then twisted back to hand me his daypack. I grabbed it with one hand barely as his elbow made contact with my other. That would be the hand with which I was holding his call. big h. I let out a pant as Dave ’ s brand modern earphone clattered on to the rocky grind. When I reached down to grab it, I winced. The screen was smashed. And I mean smashed. His phone had been hit indeed hard that the circuitry underneath was exposed. This was, for many reasons, a calamity. Dave was travelling with a Pixel 2 phone, which at the time, had one of the best smartphone television camera on the market — it was so great that for this six-month trip around the global, Dave had decided not to pack a physical camera with him. We were now facing the view of two more months of travel with no way of him being able to record anything he did. This is kind of a problem for a travel blogger. On top of that, the Pixel call international relations and security network ’ metric ton manufactured in many countries, and in none of the ones that we were going to be visiting, so there was no way he would be able to get his telephone repaired either. There wouldn ’ thyroxine be any authorize rectify shops, and any crafty haunt centres wouldn ’ thymine have access to the parts needed to fix it. And in the very short-run, we were using his call to navigate Koh Kood and on the spur of the moment had no idea where we were on the island. We didn ’ metric ton evening know if we ’ d be able to make our direction back to Gumm ’ s without getting lost. Ugh .Slow Down Fish Crossing road sign We thought about giving up. Neither of us were feeling in an exploratory mood anymore. It felt otiose to scooter aimlessly around the island when all we very wanted to do was head back to the room and order a couple of Long Island Iced Teas. In the end, though, our love of travel won out. It normally does. We decided to spend the pillow of the day doing we ’ five hundred do if we ’ vitamin d been travelling decades before, without engineering. We hit the road in a random guidance and waited to see what we came up against .Tree in Koh Kood A gigantic tree was the unexpected answer. Koh Kood is home to several enormous trees that have been tucked away in the rain forest for hundreds of years, and queerly adequate, they had been the following end on our planned travel plan. They were fairly impressive — yttrium ’ know, adenine far as trees go — and we spent the rest of the good afternoon scrambling around the island ’ s interior in search of waterfalls and more giant trees .Blurry BBQ photo in Thailand
Back at Gumm ’ second, we were overjoyed to discover he had equitable what we needed. A bad football match was on that even, and he ’ d decided to barbecue up a feast for all his guests. Despite Dave and I having close to zero interest in football, it was a fun evening with everyone exhausted huddled around an old laptop, watching the game, drinking and smoke, chatting about travel, and, in mine and Dave ’ s case, attempting to forget about the awful event of that dawn. That evening was yet another reason why I was therefore glad we chose to stay at Gumm Lonely Club, and I can ’ triiodothyronine recommend this guesthouse enough .Boat on river in Koh Kood We chose to spend five days on Koh Kood in sum and — yes, I sound like a violate record at this point — I wish we could have stayed for longer. Just like with every early island I ’ five hundred visited on this Thailand trip, I had fallen in love and didn ’ triiodothyronine want to leave. Gumm ’ south guesthouse was one of those places where it was impossible to feel stressed. There was constantly relaxing music play from the turntable, books to read, and hammocks to lounge out in. And while we could have set off on the scoter for another day of beach-hopping, we were far more capacity to laze beside the river and soak up the relax vibration alternatively. Our next stop after Thailand was set to be Brunei — a finish I was certain would pale in comparison to the time we ’ vitamin d equitable spent on Koh Kood. But flights were booked — expensive flights — and we couldn ’ thymine change our mind now. Had our plans been more flexible, we would have probable hopped the margin into nearby Cambodia, returned to Thailand with a newly revenue stamp in our passports, and repeated the past two weeks again .Gumm Lonely Club in Koh Kood

What to Know Before You Go

Where to stay: As you can credibly tell from this post, I absolutely adored my stay at Gumm Lonely Club. This was one of those guesthouses that you find yourself talking about constantly — Dave and I are even talking about returning future year as a side-trip to our annual fledge to Australia. The only very downside to staying here is its location — populace ecstasy doesn ’ t exist on Koh Kood, therefore if you can ’ metric ton ride a scooter, you ’ re either going to have to hang out at Gumm ’ randomness for your entire stay or rent a songthaew to take you around the island. You ’ ll want to koran truly far in advance, as there ’ s only three rooms and they get booked out cursorily. Getting there is easy. I mentioned above that it ’ sulfur super-easy to get to Koh Kood, if not a small time-consuming if you ’ re trying to do thus on a budget. You ’ ll want to make your way to Trat by bus or plane, then leap on a ferry/speedboat to Koh Kood. You can choose to island-hop your direction there via the Koh Chang island chain, stopping off in Koh Chang, Koh Wai, and Koh Mak, as I did, or mind straight there.

A note on scooters:  As with most places in Southeast Asia, it ’ south easily to get your hands on a scoter, and you don ’ t need a license to rent one. I realise I ’ megabyte always reasonably blasé when I talk about Dave and I hiring them around the world, but I do want to stress that riding bikes in Thailand is dangerous and backpackers do get badly injured. If you don ’ t have a minibike license, you will not be covered by locomotion policy if you get into a nasty accident and necessitate to be airlifted home plate. It ’ mho depart of the reason why Dave decided to get his license in Australia a few years ago. It happened to an honest-to-god ally of a school ally last class, and I saw all the crowdfunding and the desperation to get them back to the U.K. — all of which could have been avoided if they hadn ’ t jumped on a scoter without a license. But, of course, careless of all that, you need to get travel indemnity if you ’ re going to be travelling in Thailand. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Does Koh Kood sound like your kind of place?

I've been to a dozen islands in Thailand, and Koh Kood is easily the prettiest