french perfume, cosmetics and skin care firm

Guerlain ( french pronunciation : ​ [ ɡɛʁlɛ̃ ] ) is a french perfume, cosmetics and skin care house, which is among the oldest in the global. many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory harmonize known as the “ Guerlinade ” ( francium ). [ citation needed ] The house was founded in Paris in 1828 by the perfumer Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. It was run by the Guerlain family until 1994, when it was bought by the french multinational company LVMH. Its flagship storehouse is 68, Avenue des Champs-Elysées in Paris. [ 1 ]

history [edit ]

Guerlain ‘s L’Heure Bleue

The House of Guerlain was owned and managed by members of the Guerlain kin from its origin in 1828 to 1994. It was acquired in 1994 by the LVMH group, a french multinational investment pot specializing in luxury brands. [ citation needed ] A Guerlain boutique on the Champs-Élysées, in Paris

Beginning [edit ]

The House of Guerlain was founded in 1828, when Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain opened his aroma memory at 42, rue de Rivoli in Paris. As both the collapse and foremost perfumer of the family, Pierre-François composed and manufactured customs fragrances with the aid of his two sons, Aimé and Gabriel. Through continue achiever and the clientele of members in high company, Guerlain opened its flagship store at 15, rue de la Paix in 1840, and put its sign on the parisian manner scene. The success of the house under Pierre-François peaked in 1853 with the creation of Eau de Cologne Impériale for french Emperor Napoleon III and his Spanish-French wife Empress Eugénie. This perfume earned Pierre-François the prestigious claim of being His Majesty ‘s official Perfumer. Guerlain went on to create perfumes for Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom and Queen Isabella II of Spain, among other royalty. [ citation needed ]

second coevals [edit ]

With the death of Pierre-François in 1864, the theater was left to his sons Aimé Guerlain and Gabriel Guerlain. The roles of perfumer and director were divided between the two brothers, with Gabriel manage and further expanding the house, and Aimé becoming the dominate perfumer. The House of Guerlain thus began a long custom whereby the placement of master perfumer was handed down through the Guerlain family. As Guerlain ‘s second coevals in-house perfumer, Aimé was the creator of many authoritative compositions, including Fleur d’Italie ( 1884 ), Rococo ( 1887 ) and Eau de Cologne du Coq ( 1894 ). however, many would argue that his greatest composition was 1889 ‘s Jicky, the first aroma described as a “ parfum ” rather than an eau de cologne, and among the first to use synthetic ingredients alongside natural extracts .

third generation [edit ]

Mitsouko Guerlain ‘s The business was handed down to the sons of Gabriel Guerlain : Jacques Guerlain and Pierre Guerlain. Jacques, Aimé ‘s nephew, became Guerlain ‘s third gear master perfumer ; he was the author of many of Guerlain ‘s most celebrated classics, which are still held in high respect in the modern aroma industry. many of his perfumes are hush sold and marketed today. Among Jacques Guerlain ‘s most important creations are Mouchoir de Monsieur ( 1904 ), Après L’Ondée ( 1906 ), L’Heure Bleue ( 1912 ), Mitsouko ( 1919 ), Guerlain ‘s flagship aroma Shalimar ( 1925 ), and Vol de Nuit ( 1933 ). Jacques composed his final perfume, Ode ( 1955 ), with the aid of his grandson, the then-18-year-old Jean-Paul Guerlain .

Fourth generation [edit ]

Jean-Paul Guerlain was the last kin master perfumer. He created Guerlain ‘s classical men ‘s fragrances Vétiver ( 1959 ) and Habit Rouge ( 1965 ). He besides created Chant d’Arômes ( 1962 ) and Chamade ( 1969 ). From 1975 to 1989, he collaborated with perfumer Anne-Marie Saget, composing Nahema ( 1979 ), Jardins de Bagatelle ( 1983 ), Derby ( 1985 ) and Samsara ( 1989 ). [ 2 ] His late knead includes Héritage ( 1992 ), Coriolan ( 1998 ) and Vétiver pour Elle ( 2004 ). Jean-Paul Guerlain retired in 2002, but continued to serve as adviser to his successor until 2010, when he was terminated after making a racist remark on french television receiver regarding the inspiration for his scent Samsara. [ 3 ] With no heir from within the Guerlain family to take over, the function of dominate perfumer is nobelium long tied to family succession .

purchase by the LVMH Group [edit ]

In a decision widely seen as a break with tradition, the Guerlain kin sold the company to the luxury goods conglomerate Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton ( LVMH ) in 1994. Though Jean-Paul Guerlain remained as an in-house perfumer until 2002, other perfumers were brought in after 1994 to compose perfumes for Guerlain, and Jean-Paul had to submit his compositions against those of others. Fans of the house viewed the LVMH leverage as a step towards the degrade and commercialization of the fabled fast ‘s bequest. Most were dysphoric with the first post-LVMH exhaust, the 1996 gratifying mimosa floral Champs-Elysées, composed by Olivier Cresp, whose entrance was selected over that of Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Among the away perfumers to compose perfumes for the firm after 1994 was Mathilde Laurent, who worked for Guerlain at the goal of the 1990s and in the early on 2000s. She composed Aqua Allegorica Pamplelune ( 1999 ) and Shalimar Light ( 2003, reattributed to Jean-Paul Guerlain and relaunched in 2004 following reformulation ). Maurice Roucel, a perfumer of Symrise, composed L’Instant de Guerlain ( 2004 ) and Insolence ( 2006 ). As the niece of Jean-Jacques Guerlain, some think Patricia de Nicolaï would have been a campaigner for the put of Guerlain ‘s in-house perfumer, [ 4 ] though the presence of a glass ceiling in the company prevented her survival for side. [ 5 ] In May 2008, Thierry Wasser was named the in-house perfumer for Guerlain. Wasser, a swiss perfumer who used to work for Firmenich, created Iris Ganache ( 2007 ) and Quand Vient la Pluie ( 2007 ) for Guerlain before his appointment the following year. Jean-Paul Guerlain stayed on in an advisory adviser role, both for bouquet plan and ingredients. Wasser was to work closely with Sylvaine Delacourte, Guerlain ‘s Artistic Director. [ 6 ] In 2010, the LVMH Group cut ties with Jean-Paul Guerlain as their adviser due to his racist comments on french television receiver. [ 7 ] [ 8 ] [ 9 ] russian model Natalia Vodianova has been the face of Guerlain campaigns since 2008. Vodianova began advertising Shalimar to celebrate the perfume house ‘s hundred-and-eightieth birthday. [ 10 ] For the fall 2013 makeup solicitation, Olivier Echaudemaison, Guerlian ‘s Creative Director of Makeup since 2000 [ 11 ] commented “ Every season we fantasize with Natalia ‘s image and fabricate for her a raw function. For us, it is not fair a model, which advertises cosmetics, but above all, a great actress ”. [ 12 ] In October 2011, the company named malaysian actress Michelle Yeoh as a new spokesmodel. Yeoh is an ambassador for the Orchidée Impériale credit line of skin care. [ 13 ]

Products [edit ]

Guerlain ‘s creations have long influenced the trends of perfumery with fragrances such as Jicky, Shalimar, and Vétiver. Guerlain is among the few older houses ( such as Caron ) that exist entirely to produce and marketplace perfumes. many brands in the perfume diligence, such as Chanel and Jean Patou are in fact divisions of fashion houses or multinational conglomerates that license the brand name. Alongside its fragrances, today Guerlain has expanded to offer a bombastic range of makeup and skin care. Guerlain products are available across the earth at service counters within department stores, and at beauty stores such as mate LVMH mark Sephora. Guerlain besides maintains thirteen international beauty and watering place ’boutiques ‘, five within France ( two being in Paris ). [ 14 ] Vétiver by Guerlain. Glass flacon design by by Guerlain. Glass flacon purpose by Robert Granai in 2000 .

Perfumes [edit ]

Since its foundation in 1828, Guerlain has created over 600 fragrances. [ 15 ] Among the company ‘s most celebrated ( in terms of longevity, sales or cultural impact ) are :

References [edit ]

far reading [edit ]

  • Stamelman, R: “Perfume – Joy, Obsession, Scandal, Sin”. Rizzoli. ISBN 978-0-8478-2832-6. A cultural history of fragrance from 1750 to the present day.
  • Collectif, Dictionnaire des parfums – 10e édition 1990–1991, Sermadiras, 1990, 304 p.
  • Élisabeth de Feydeau, Le roman des Guerlain. Parfumeurs de Paris, Flammarion, 2017, 363 p. (lire en ligne)
  • Pierre-Roland Saint-Dizier (scénario), Li-An (dessin), Guerlain, Le prince des parfums, 1ère époque, Pierre-François-Pascal (1798/1864), bande dessinée, Glénat, 2018